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Oh its a laundry list of mods....
Lets just say there is $8000 in it. And about $4000 is trial and error, or trial and no gain. Here are the highlights:
1. JR 6psi LS Kit
2. SRP 10.5:1 pistons .020 over (equal +23cc
displacement)
3. Milled head (11:1 compression)
port and polish, 3 angle vavle job
4. JG1001 cams (mild, mid range cams, no
gains at peak, bumps up torque from 3500-
4500 and gains 15Hp at redline, you can
say it increases power on both sides of
the peak, but not the peak itself)
FOR SALE if anyone wants them
5. AEM cam pulleys (tuned for more overlap,
and more compression, decreases PSI to 5
but lowered my E.T. .2 seconds)
6. self ported TB
7. Homemade ram air intake (high beam
headlight scoop)
makes +1psi@80mph and +2psi@130mph
8. DC 4-2-1 header (great if not boosting)
now it only helps in midrange
9. Flowmaster 2" muffler (great midrange)
10.Jacobs ignition
11.Shogun power tuner (have ignition timing
at 12.5 degrees backing it down to 10 by
full boost) Leaned out fuel by 10%
inbetween 5000-7000rpm
12. 225/45/14 BFG Drag Radials (21.75" tall X 8.8" wide) with 15psi (lowers gear ratio by 10% (consistent 2.10 60ft times) on street legal tires (I drive them to the track)
13. 10lbs 14" BBS rims from a wrecked Accord
14. A lot of other small stuff that together might make up a whopping 3HP
When you finally figure out that ALL of your parts need to match the same RPM range your car will finally be fast (only in that range though).
Note. For all you supposely gear heads. A 10% lower gear ratio has the same ET results as a 10% increase in torque!
Notice how I have a fast ET but a slow Trap speed. Trap speed is HP divided by weight, and ET is Torque MULTIPIED by gear ratio!
Check out some of my other posts in cam query and other places where I talk about tuning and how it works and why....
By the way I have 210,000 miles with original parts unless noted otherwise above
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94 LS SC@5psi
dyno 181/158
13.98@97mph
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Oh yeah, that measurement was at the track after playing with my cam gears. I would never post or brag about a G-tech time, its to wishy-washy and too much human error involved.
I had that thing tell me I had 500hp once. Of course I was accelerating down hill. But it was only a 10% grade. Weird huh?
I have taken my G-tech to the track. It measures on average .2 seconds fast with 5mph higher traps (because its not a trap speed but the highest velocity thru the 1/4 mile.)
Its very good to measure bolt ons though.
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Chris
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Oh yeah, that measurement was at the track after playing with my cam gears. I would never post or brag about a G-tech time, its to wishy-washy and too much human error involved.
I had that thing tell me I had 500hp once. Of course I was accelerating down hill. But it was only a 10% grade. Weird huh?
I have taken my G-tech to the track. It measures on average .2 seconds fast with 5mph higher traps (because its not a trap speed but the highest velocity thru the 1/4 mile.)
Its very good to measure bolt ons though.
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Chris
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Blownls: It's kinda weird though,
the gsr guys are around 210 hp and
here you are at 180 and doing high 13's.
Why is that?
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98 ACURA INTEGRA LS
JRSC@6PSI
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Anyways, Thanks blownls for the information.
You really know your stuff.
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98 ACURA INTEGRA LS
JRSC@6PSI
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Its all about application, and knowing how to use it correctly to your advantage. You don't drive a non-vtech like a Vtech.
I have a serious torque advantage. I have a serious gear ratio advantage (only in the first two gears though). Relook at all the things that I have done above. You probably will pick up on all my parts are for a particular rpm range. A range that gives me, a 30HP advantage over boosted GSR, when I down shift, into this midrange band, my car is going to town in a hurry.
My 11:1 compression ratio also helps torque 10% better than a GSR, since I have a 10% higher compression ratio, I get the same effect as they do with a couple psi more boost.
And It all comes down to driving it like you stole it
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